Saturday, January 21, 2012

Recovering Retro: Rag Curls Part 2

Since yesterday’s post, popular demand has motivated me to share an in-depth tutorial for rolling successful rag curls. The following method works best for my hair, so if you find a better way after experimenting with your own hair, more power to you! I also thought of a few tips that might make your first attempts better than mine were. So here you go: step-by-step instructions and helpful tips. Enjoy!


Step 1: Patiently let your hair dry to that perfect, nearly dry stage. My mom used to describe my hair as “bone dry” when I reached this stage, I’m not really sure why. If your hair is too wet, the curls won’t set properly and will probably end up more wavy than curly. Of course, that may be what you’re going for. But I know I hit the right ratio of damp to dry when, the next morning, I have bouncy curls that spring back when I pull on the ends. It’s addicting, so watch out!


Step 2: Part your hair from side to side, the way hairdressers do when they cut layers, and clip the rest on top of your head. I find that curling in layers from the back of my neck to the top of my head yields the fullest, most even crop of curls.


Step 3: Divide the loose hair into sections, and smooth or comb it so you won’t have many knots tomorrow morning. Grab a rag curler and get ready to wrap.


Step 4: Begin wrapping at one end of the curler, leaving a tail on the curler to tie later. Wrap the end of your hair tightly around the curler, TOWARD the direction that you will be rolling. This means that the thin ends get buried beneath thicker layers of curl, so they stay put and don’t slip out while you sleep.






Step 5: After securing the ends thus, grab the ends of the curlers in each hand and begin rolling. Roll all the way up to your scalp, or stop wherever you want the curl to stop.




Step 6: Tie both ends of the rag together over the top of the curl. If you tie it under the bottom, the curl will unwind one layer and the tie will end up on the top naturally, so it will end up looser than you intended.


Step 7: Once you’ve curled one layer, unclip your hair and make another parted layer. Work your way up your scalp, leaving the hair on the top and sides of your forehead for last.


Step 8 (optional): Spray with hairspray or smooth down the individual curls with desired hair product. I just let mine dry naturally, because I usually keep the curls for two days and don’t want my hair to get greasy from leaving in hair products. For tips for freshening up your curls for two-day wear, read on!



So it’s 6:30am the next morning, and you’ve pulled all the curlers out and have those great, bouncy curls billowing around your head. You look like Shirley Temple. Now what?

This is the time to shape your curls and make them less extreme, since people don’t actually wear Victorian ringlets anymore. If you’re going for that look, just try shaking your head and pulling on the springy ends (I told you it was addicting). But if you’re like me, you want a LOT more taming than that.

I start separating the curls, one at a time. I usually don’t separate them more than once, because tons of small curls are harder to manage. Thicker curls also weight down your hair and slowly unravel, making the coils less extreme.

After separating a curl, I comb it. Yes, you heard right. I actually brush my curls. But there’s a special technique to it. I first learned this tip from a delightful youtube page, The Lipstick Diaries. If you want to check out the brushing tip, plus another fun tutorial for heat-free curls, go here.


I use a wide-toothed comb and start at the bottom tip of each curl. I work my way up the entire length, meanwhile holding the curl in one hand and twisting the strand of hair in the direction of the curl. After I've removed any tangles and smoothed any flyaways, I twist the curl a little more, this time sliding my hand all the way down its length. If the curl is too frizzy, I spread a dot of product on my fingers and repeat the twist-and-slide step.





Taming rag curls does take time, but once you get the hang of it you get into a rhythm. Just keep twisting in the direction of the spiral, and you should be fine.



Rag curlers are great for long-haired ladies because they set so firmly that you can “recycle” your curls for a second day. To preserve curls overnight, braid your hair loosely, being careful not to separate the curls that are still intact. The next morning, just repeat the comb and twist routine. I find the curls often look even better the second day because they’re looser and more natural. If the hair at the top of my hair is flat, I often put my day-two hair into a ponytail for lovely cascades of loose curls all day.


Day-old curls: still look pretty good, don't they?

For another hair texturing tutorial, check out this post on Carolyn’s blog, my sister site—literally!

I hope you found these tips helpful. Again, please send along pictures of your retro rag curls!

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